Sensory Spring

I laid a cushion out on the patio and fell asleep. I was tucked under a sleeping bag that was in turn tucked into a second sleeping bag, both under a wool blanket, all against the night’s chill. I intended only to give myself a straight-up view for a while of the aurora, without neck strain. But I soon dozed off after closing my eyes, opening them again to see what had changed in the northern lights, closing them again, a few more views, then deeply asleep. By good fortune, this aurora corresponds to clear skies and only a thin crescent moon that doesn’t drown out the show with its own light. Along with the stars and planets (and annoying satellites), the slender moon just adds to the dancing colours and shapes filling the sky. The solar storm was the most intense in 19 years; looking up into the sky, straight up into the brilliant shower of intense radiation, I wondered at the absolute, aloof silence of such intense power.

I woke at dawn, rose to pee in the harassing dewy chill, thought of the aurora, thinking as I always do the morning after that it couldn’t have been as it appears in my memory. I considered going inside for a few more hours of sleep in the warmth of the house, away from the din of birdsong. But I so enjoyed my outside sleep, I wanted to sink back into it. Despite the noise, the feeling of peace brought a few more hours of sleep and dreams. I woke again with a smile when I realized I was hearing the swallows, who must have arrived from their southern quarters during my morning sleep.

I laid there for at least an hour, letting my senses wake fully, waiting for the sunbeams to round the corner of the house so I could rise in their warmth. The morning bird chorus hadn’t ended. Lincoln’s sparrows, northern water thrush, ruby-crowned kinglets. Not all the songbirds have returned yet, but already the chorus is rich, many species singing over each other all at once. On the pond, a duck softly pipes to her brood, all of them making funny wet noises as the ducklings learn to dabble for bits of food. Hornet and yellow jacket queens buzz along the walls of the house slowly and menacingly, surveying for nesting spots. So many of them this spring! This will be a bad year for stings. The first, soft unfurled aspen leaves tremble in the breeze, almost silent, just becoming audible; they’ll firm up and becoming louder, clapping in the wind all summer, sounding like a very large applauding crowd heard distantly.

Rising from my bedding again, back into the house where everything now seems mundane after such a rich night and morning. It’s a let-down feeling just like when a prolonged power outage ends and all the lights and motors turn back on. News, emails, the to-do list, cleaning last night’s dishes, making coffee (black, I’m out of cream), back to the computer, more news, analyses of and predictions for the world in its sad, sad state, then breakfast. Five eggs and a heap of buttery hashbrowns from home-grown potatoes brought in from the root cellar. A strong cup of cardamom tea.

Trevor and Buki head out to help clear trails for a couple hours. I have watering to do. The garden is so dry, and it’ll be a hot day. Trevor and Buki return, our trail-clearer and his partner leave. Buki goes in to sleep; she was up late last night with all us aurora-watchers, and up and active early for trail work, so she’s zonked, and I can get some work done rather than taking her out for her morning walk. Now the rest of the day is private. It’s sunny and warm. My shoulders were already sunburned from yesterday, but only on the top. I’m tanned nearly all over already, just not the tops of my shoulders because my sun exposure has been mostly at a low angle as I lie out on the dock, head-end away from the low, northern spring sun. Now the sun is high and I’m upright, with garden work to do, no time to lie down for a sun bather’s nap.

All through the gardening day, so much to see: A springtail perched on the stigma of a gentian. The undecided sinuous speed of a centipede suddenly exposed from under a pot. The bundle of fresh moss spore capsules not yet opened. The garter snake basking on a rock. So few snakes this year, and only the largest ones seen so far. I guess the winter’s thin snowpack let the cold penetrate deeper into their hibernacula than it should have, killing most of them, especially the smallest ones. The still-early garden bringing out more and more flowers in every colour but orange (why so little orange in the spring flora?). A calypso orchid in the nearby forest, the first of its kind we’ve seen close to the house, just outside the property line. The opening of fold-on-fold buds on the latest trees to leaf out; further inside the bud, flowers forming, and within them the gametes. Meiosis everywhere around us as the greening world prepares to create the next generation, creating the future. The opening leaves look so extravagant after those six months of winter’s miserly twigs.

The nearby creeks call from their cascading tumbles over the mountain slopes and through their nearer cobbly channels. It’s a sound carried louder by the night’s denser air, but a sound that should be louder than it is during this prolonged drought. The thaw continues, but only up high, and there’s little snow pack up there this year to feed the creeks. There’s only one patch of snow remaining in our view of the mountain slopes. The final melting of that patch is our indication of when it’s safe to plant out the tender vegetables in the garden, when there will be no more frost until September or October.

The bats swoop and flutter silently at dusk, more of them as it becomes harder to see. Also at night, the heavy, low whirr of passing June bugs (Melolonthinae, a kind of scarab beetle). Why “June bugs”? We find them in May, not June. And “foolbugs” would have been a better name. They’re inelegant, they fly aimlessly, they crash into things with a tumble and struggle to get up again. Their bodies are as plump and as aero-non-dynamic as the fattest grubs. But somehow they manage to find each other and mate. While typing this, next to the corner windows of my office, I wonder what happened to the giant silk moths, who used to flap noisily at the windows at night, but who now are absent most years. There was one last year, the first in a long time. None this year so far. And fewer moths of every species. Even here on the edge of the wilderness, it’s the insect apocalypse. Why?

Spring. The clouds are starting to remember that they can do more than in their winter repertoire. We’re waiting for our annual early summer monsoon, when the clouds grow tall, shade us in the afternoon, and call out thunder to each other and give us rain. Or so we hope. Most recent years have brought a weakened or failed monsoon. It isn’t just climate change doing this to us. It’s industrial logging. In the past 25 years the timber companies, with government and public approval, worked fast to reduce the canopy cover by half across the upwind plateau. They’ve badly diminished forest transpiration, drying our air. Now there’s less for the clouds and their supporting thermals to work with, so we rely on the Jetstream to bring us summer rain. But in summer, especially in July through September, that atmospheric stream doesn’t want to remain at these latitudes. And the Jetstream has gone loopy, with exaggerated undulations that get stuck in place, bringing flood years to one region, and drought years to another. We keep finding ourselves stuck on the hot and dry side of those loops. The reduced summer rain has dried our forests out badly. Half the trees on the stony plateau west of the house have died and fallen in the last 15 years. And half the trees have died in the subalpine forests to the east. The whole region is drying out. Giant wildfires are the result. And those fires are the further cause, driving a vicious cycle, as so much mass tree death and incineration has further reduced transpiration, drying the region’s summer air.

But the nearby forests remain alive, though weakened. The understory surprises us everywhere. I’ve seen twenty spring seasons in this landscape, but every spring still amazes me with its greening forest: reemerging queen’s cups, lilies and false Solomon’s seal, impossibly delicate oak ferns, the spikes of rice grass, the opening parasols of wild sarsaparilla. Winter and the subsequent brown season are so austere, and now, suddenly, everything is Baroque.

This is the ornate living world that most of the world’s humans no longer experience in their cities, suburbs, and slums. And few people, even if they find themselves in the wilds, would notice much of it, no matter what is happening around them. I notice, at least some of it, though there’s always more to discover. Trevor notices. I’m sure Buki notices even more. Our awareness of the sensory is part of what draws us three together here at the threshold of the wilderness.

I dread the time that is coming, when this wild landscape also burns. And then everywhere we look around us, we will have to look at the austerity of blackened snags. The post-burn green-up will be wonderful, but it will green up into a further drying, heating world that will have less and less in its repertoire, less for the senses. At least humanity can’t reach the aurora and ruin it. No matter how hard we try, we will never touch any of the universe but our immediate surroundings. At least the sky will remain ornate, though our view of it is now foreverly compromised by those damned satellites and other space junk.

I should stop typing and go outside to see what is happening. Even indoors with the windows closed, I can smell the sweet perfume of the cottonwoods.

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Glimpses of the Garden

Iris pumila “Moldau” Show’s over already. It lasted only three days. I’ll be waiting for it to bloom again a year from now.
Claytonia perfoliata, delicious edible, antiscorbutic.
Paxistima canbyi, blooming it’s heart out, but barely noticed.
Jeffersonia diphylla, whose flowers are pathetically weak. A bee tries to land on them, and they just fall apart.
Leibnitzia anandria, growing in combination with Valeriana (Plectritis) congesta, Gilia capitata, Oreomecon sp. nov., Peritoma serrulata, and Linaria aeruginosa, all of them self-sown. I like fostering such improbable combinations of plants in the garden. I’m pretty sure there’s no other garden in the world with these plants growing side by each.
A most classic of classic tulips. Growing in a pot brought out from the greenhouse and set by the back door for a good, red greeting.
Lomatium sandbergii, a regionally endemic species from mountains of the southern Interior Wetbelt
“Tiny violet” A wee member of the Viola adunca complex that seems to have no name (except “tiny violet”. I knew of it only from here in the Clearwater Valley, but last summer I found that it’s also common far up north in the Omineca Mountains, where it’s a regular member of Festuca altaica grasslands.
Viola jooi, from the eastern Carpathians. I’ve grown this for a few years, but it was only today I noticed that it’s fragrant (like Viola odorata). This was the original plant. It now has many progeny scattered around. Maybe I could naturalize it throughout the lawns.
Rhodiola pinnatifida, with rosettes of Papaver triniifolium
Rhodiola integrifolia, from the Cassiar Mountains
Bronzy new growth on Adiantum venustum. It survived another winter! Here in Zone 3, I’m pushing two garden zones of hardiness for this species.
Polemonium acutiflorum, grown from seed gathered in the Cassiar Mountains
Claytonia rubra has suddenly shown up spontaneously in the garden. Every year, plants appear in the garden beds inexplicably. Some of them extremely unlikely, such as Koenigia islandica. Garden magic.

Night visions

Early to bed, early to rise! Most Canadians I know start yawning by 8:30 in the evening, and by 9:00, they are in bed and are not to be disturbed. Quite different where I come from in the US, where at 9:00, everyone’s still wide-awake playing board games or cards, knitting, baking, trying to get the kids to settle down, or watching sitcoms. I find it funny that in the northern summer of Canada, most people are already asleep before sunset. Are Canadians afraid of the dark?

When we were children, my sister and I could hardly be dragged indoors from the wondrous dark of late summer nights. “Kids! Bedtime!” “Aww, mom! Just five more minutes? Please!!!” We had nighttime games to play with the neighbour kids. Like Gray Wolf, that in-the-dark variation of hide and go seek, with it’s hiders’ refrain: “Gray wolf, gray wolf, are you out tonight?!” followed by the seeker’s reply “Ooowooooooo!” Do kids still play that game? Do kids still go outside at night?

We often walk Buki along the road at night. There’s less traffic then, or none at all, so we usually have the road all to ourselves. Neighbours who on occasion drive home after dark, bleary eyed, will already be familiar with my headlight beam or Trevor’s, and Buki’s bright reflective eyes. Other drivers who don’t know us might find our presence on the road unnerving. Do the say: “why don’t those night owls go to bed at a reasonable hour?” “What are they doing walking around in the dark?” “They’re weird!”?

In 20 years of living in this valley, I’ve never seen anyone else walking along the road at night. Trevor and I must seem very strange, but it’s normal for us. And there’s so much going on at night, we don’t want to miss it all. On our nocturnal walks, we get to see the northern lights, the shooting stars, the seasonal changes in the constellations, Orion trekking across the winter sky. On summer night walks along the road, we sometimes enjoy the wonderful sensation of lying down flat on our backs on the still-warm asphalt to gaze up at the stars. We get to hear the wolves howling in chorus. And we sometimes sing to them, and they sing back. We can monitor the rise and fall of the owl populations and know by their singing when they’re in the mood for love. Plus we’re the community’s self-styled night watchmen, keeping an eye out for any suspicious activity.

On night walks at this time of year, I often catch a reflective glint in my headlamp beam several meters ahead on the road bed. A brighter sparkle than the reflections from bits of mica or quartz grit. Marking the spot in my eye’s memory and walking toward it, the sparkle is gone unless I move the headlamp lower down and crouch for a lower-angle view. If I’m careful, I find its source: a wolf spider. Their night-vision eyes are reflective, like Buki’s, but the reflected light is a different colour. Not amber, but instead pure white, just like the sparkles of a diamond.

This reminds me of James Thurber’s story The Mystery of the Topaz Cufflinks, in which a cop prowling at night finds a man in a roadside ditch, on hands & knees, barking like a dog, and a woman slowly approaching him in a car. The policeman, full of suspicion as any cop will be, demanded an explanation. The man and woman were embarrassed about what they were actually doing, so the man said he was looking for his lost topaz cufflinks. But the cop noticed that the man was in front of the car, not behind it. And so, eyes squinting with certain doubt, he explained that people lose things behind them, not in a place they haven’t yet got to. Unable to rescue their story (probably too tired so late at night to fabricate a story about driving backwards that wouldn’t implicate them in some sort of traffic violation), they had to admit what they were actually doing: they were curious to know if human eyes don’t reflect in a bright light beam at night only because a person’s eyes are higher than a car’s headlights, thereby losing the reflection upward to the sky (the woman’s hypothesis), or because they don’t reflect at all (the man’s hypothesis). Hence the man was crouched low in the light of the car’s headlights. They were too embarrassed to admit they were doing natural history. Most people (and cops) don’t understand the naturalist’s curious mind. Curiosity is a dangerous thing.

I wonder how often my own natural history activities have startled people or made cops suspicious. Once I was crouched under a nearby road bridge at 2 am: staring into the pool of a drying creek bed, watching a giant water bug who was in turn staring menacingly at small stranded fishes. I wanted to see the bug use its powerful front legs to catch one of the fish, and use its dagger-like mouth parts to stab the fish and suck its juices out. Poor fishes. I could hear a vehicle coming, and it was too late to scramble out from under the bridge to look like I was just out for a late-night dog walk. Whoever it was, I figured they would just pass over the bridge and be on their way, unaware of me. But while I crouched out of sight under the bridge, waiting, they stopped just a few feet directly above me and I heard them get out of the vehicle. I was ready to explain “Um, hi, I’m looking at fish”. I figured it was best not to say “Um, I’m looking at a giant water bug”, which would really cross a line, especially if they don’t know what a “giant water bug” is. But they got back in their vehicle and drove on, still unaware of me. If I were really smart, before they could say anything I would demand: “What are you doing on my bridge at 2 in the morning?!”

While working on the taxonomy of introduced Taraxacum along the sidewalks of urban Vancouver, I got tired of the suspicious looks and of unsolicitedly explaining what I was doing wielding a knife to cut dandelions at the root crown and stuffing the plants into plastic bags. From the lichenologist/mycologist Vivian Miao (who spends a lot of time putting her face close up to the trunks of urban street trees in Vancouver to study the lichens), I learned that no one suspects anything if you wear a hi-vis vest and carry a clipboard. Looking official like that, people are reassured that you are doing societal good and shouldn’t be bothered. That made my dandelion job a lot pleasanter. Thank you, Vivian!

Back to the roadbed spiders, it seems it’s always just one species whose eyes twinkle back at me. I can often find more than ten within a kilometer’s walk. They’re small for wolf spiders, but surely part of the Lycosidae, with the characteristic muscular legs of that taxonomic family. I think they belong to a species of the genus Pardosa. But I’m not at all sure. I know very little about spiders. It’s not a group of organisms I would chose to study. They give me the shivers. I have goosebumps just writing this paragraph.

I could only guess what attracts the spiders to the road. Maybe it’s that they enjoy the warmth the road releases after being exposed to the sun all day. Or maybe it’s good hunting grounds, with insects scurrying around who are also attracted to the warmth of the asphalt. Or maybe it’s the lack of obstacles (thatch and such)–good running grounds for the spiders to chase down prey. Or maybe they’re out on the road just for the pleasure of a nighttime stroll, like Buki and me.

Much else crosses the road at night: toads, salamanders, shrews, mice, and the predators searching for the mice. There’s a lot of death on the road. But it isn’t all predation. Tire-squashed toads, salamanders and more. And the few vehicles racing along the road at night must be running over some of the wolf spiders, too. Death by predation is useful–life rising from death. But death by passing vehicle is useless. Just meaningless death. Some of the run-over corpses attract scavengers, and they get run over too. Whether at night or in the day, every drive on a country road is a killing spree, countless personal tragedies of death by massive blunt force or crushing. Or laming with a mangled leg followed by gradual death in prolonged agony from bleeding, infection, and dehydration as they try to drag themselves to the relief of cover and a water source. Or they get run over a second time, unable to get out of the way. Dragonflies, deer, moose, worms, bear, grouse, butterflies, squirrels, moths, bees. If there are young at home in the den or nest, they, too, suffer, dying from starvation, dehydration, and exposure while mom or dad lies dead or dying on the road. Poor organisms.

People of the ancient Jain religion know all about this. To the Jains, killing is soul-polluting, no matter how small the victim, even if it’s an accident. They walk slowly and carry a swishy broom to sweep the ground before them, clearing the way of spiders, ants, centipedes, or any other creature that might find itself under the soles of their feet. Good Jains mustn’t even think violent thoughts. Instead they seek salvation by yielding to the world’s forces willingly, without any fear, hate, or resentment. I’m guessing Jains don’t drive. Or ride in taxis. If they did, they would cause immense death and suffering among the animals crossing the roads. A Jain’s soul would be in terrible condition after going for a drive on a country lane. Orthodox Jains are so abhorrent of killing that the only food they will eat are the fruits and seeds that fall from plants of their own accord. And because possessions are frowned upon, and because clothing is made of dead materials, Digambara-sect (Sky-Clad) Jains go about their lives completely naked. My kind of people. Bless the Jains.

Goodnight. Sweet dreams.

Balsamroots

Buki and I spent a day in the “big town” for errands. But with a wayside now and then, to stretch our legs, and to play with sticks. I was sent to Kamloops for an echocardiogram, a routine I’ll have to get used to as I age, to look for any worrisome signs related to a genetic disorder that can cause progressive thinning of the heart and aortal tissues. With signs worrisome enough, surgery might be needed. Without surgical intervention, people with my disorder tend not to live very long. But with surgery, we can live a normal lifespan.

I had to lie still for a half hour while my heart was diagrammed visually and audially. It was fascinating to hear the machine sample the sounds made by the various regions of my heart. The double beats, the rapid swishing of the blood flowing with each contraction, the curiously gritty sound, as if my blood were effervescent, filled with champagne bubbles. As the sonogram device pressed into one part of my ribcage and then moved to another, the sounds changed. At one point, it wasn’t a double beat. There’s some portion of my heart that works to a triple beat, a thumpthumpthump thumpthumpthump thumpthumpthump. My heart dancing a waltz. Better that than the heart’s characteristic double-beat quick-step funeral dirge.

I’ve shied away from doctors for most of my life. Others need medical care more than me. I’ve been so vigorous and energetic through most of my life, I haven’t needed checkups. And I’m too busy to slow down for the doctors.

Because I could not stop for Death –/He kindly stopped for me –

Balsamorhiza sagittata/Arnica cordifolia

A spring trip to Kamloops brings me to some of the more southerly flora of my childhood. The balsamroots are having a banner year. Great grassland hillslopes extravagantly brilliant yellow. But the errands list was so long, I had no time to stop to see and photograph the great displays. Only just a pee stop at a wooded wayside by the highway, and a few quick photos where there were only a few paltry edge-of-their-range balsamroots, plus Buki’s requisite stick play. So many errands, and the trip to the hospital, where I arrived breathlessly late. They let me into my appointment anyway.

We slowly drove – He knew no haste/And I had put away/My labor and my leisure too/For His Civility –

(Lines from Emily Dickinson’s poem Because I could not stop for death)

Due Gratitude

A story over 2000 years old:

Ravena

Let us repay the gratitude to the ravens the gratitude that is their due, evidenced also by the indignation and not only by familiarity to the Roman nation. When Tiberius was emperor, a young raven from a brood hatched on the top of the temple of Castor and Pollux flew down to a cobbler’s shop in the vicinity, being also commended to the master of the establishment by religion. It soon picked up the habit of talking, and every morning used to fly off to the platform that faces the Forum and salute Tiberius and then Germanicus and Drusus Caesar by name, and next the Roman public passing by, afterwards returning to the shop. It became remarkable by several years’ constant performance of this function. This bird was killed by the tenant of the next cobbler’s shop, whether because of his neighbour’s competition or in a sudden outburst of anger, because some mess had fallen on his stock of shoes from its droppings. This caused such indignation among the public that the man was first driven out of the district and later actually killed, and the bird’s funeral was celebrated with a vast crowd of followers, the draped bier being carried on the shoulders of two Ethiopians and in front of it going in procession a trumpet-player and all kinds of wreaths, right to the pyre.

Related by Pliny the Elder in his Natural History, Book X

Let that be a lesson to you.

The Garden, Doing Things

Sanguinaria canadensis

Canadensis, Latinized Canada with the ending meaning -from the place of. Alas, not native across the country, only in the east, as are most of the plants bearing that name.

Primula ‘Nefertiti’

Nefertiti is an odd choice of name for a primrose cultivar. Queen Nefertiti and her pharaoh husband Akhenaten exerted a bloody dictatorial theocratic rein over Egypt. They were despised for their violence and for their arrogant insistence that no god but the Aten (the sun disc) should be worshiped. After his death, Akhenaten’s name was struck from the King Lists, and his images were destroyed. Mention of his name became forbidden. Akhetaten, the new capitol he and Nefertiti consecrated with treasury-breaking gilded pomp, was abandoned, as was the Aten-worship obsession, and he was then mentioned thereafter only as “That Criminal”.

Petasites x vitifolius

One of the first native species to bloom is this hybrid coltsfoot, a cross between the common P. palmatus and the nowhere-to-be-seen-near-here P. sagittatus. The nearest population of the latter that we know of is about 8 km north. Maybe we’re just not looking hard enough.

Camassia ‘Blue Heaven’

We’ve grown this camas for a few years now. Each year we’ve had a significant increase in the number of bulbs. In fact, the increase has gone exponential. We now have enough to pit-roast for a traditional feast.

Saxifraga ferdinandi-coburgii subsp. radoslavoffii

Gads what an awful name!

Scilla sibirica

It’s the terrible blue weed. Irresistible, though. Great evolutionary strategy, to be a deceptively pretty invasive.

Ranunculus glaberrimus

The sagebrush buttercup. In 19th Century Spokane (the place but not my time of origin, unfortunately), there were contests for school children to be the first to find a sagebrush buttercup in flower. This took place in early spring, when children (and some adults) were eager to see the first of anything in bloom after the long, drab winter (winter in Spokane is dreadful).

Globularia meridionalis

A large, robust patch, but with only one flower head. It could do better. But couldn’t we all?

Viola macloskeyi

Or something like that. Our wild western white violets are poorly understood. Under this name, we have two species native in the garden and in the surrounding wetlands: This smaller one, here growing in the lawn, with leathery leaves and an early flowering time, and a later-flowering larger one with thinner leaves. I’m delighted to see a part of the lawn as suitable habitat for this native violet. I’m not sure if the form in the photo is typical (true) V. macloskei. This needs study. Lawns are not a usual venue for plant taxonomy. Or they haven’t commonly been so since the 19th Century.

Au Naturel

When I was very young, nap time was the remedy for excessive childhood energy, to give mom a quiet break. It was just something to whine about and endure, condemned to an hour of grumpy boredom trapped in my bedroom, dimly lit by curtain-filtered sun.

As an adult, I continued to hate to nap and I would resist the urge to sleep in the daytime, choosing instead to fight through the leaden afternoon doldrums, struggling, coffee-fueled, to keep productive. If I absolutely could not resist, when the urge was too strong, I would wake from naptime feeling worse, feeling sick. It was a penance. I didn’t know how to nap.

What changed? Maybe my stamina is diminishing as I enter my 50s. Or I just learned to stop fighting hard always to be productive. Have I learned to let go? Why be hyper-productive while the world slips into climatic and political chaos? Let it go. Lie down. Sleep.

As this spring of 2024 evolves out of winter, we’ve enjoyed unusually warm temperatures under glorious blue skies. Even if the air temperature is chilly, so long as the sun shines bright and the wind is no more than a whisper, it is comfortable to sleep outside. As early as late January, when we had two weeks of improbable 10 degree temperatures, I set a cushion on the snowless gravel under the breezeway of the cabin, stripped, laid down first with a book, then covered my eyes against the sun, and then snoozed, comfortably. Many sunny days in March, once the snow on the dock melted away, and now April, when time and privacy allow, I sprawl out by the pond. Freikörperkultur-style. No apologies to unscheduled visitors who arrive silently. It’s just a human body, you’ll get over the shock.

Late in my five decades of life, I’ve learned to say “yes” to life, increasingly unconditionally. I’ve learned to say “yes” unconditionally to the sun. Not “yes, except this part of me”. I have sufficient melatonin production. I tan well. I’m less in danger of skin cancer than many. And so I say enthusiastically “yes” to the sun. With my nudist naps, I’m saying yes not only to the sun, but to everything that is: the breeze, the air temperature as it may be, even yes to the harmless but ticklish little flies who love sweat. And even a reluctant but yielding “yes” to the occasional mosquito, whose bite is not so terrible after all. In winter weather, or cold rain, or when it’s windy, I can lie inside sprawled on a window bench or on the floor in front of the woodstove. But when the chance arises, I’ll nap outside in the sun.

And so with a conceding “yes”, I can lie down on the dock, and love what is. Humans are made to desire what is not. Our maladapted bodies are actually a cause of our evolutionary success. Because we are soft-soled, dull in senses, defenseless, and nearly hairless, we must invent and cloak and arm ourselves in what is artificial and not truly of this living world. And we have the opposable thumbs required to make our inventive creations work. Or because we developed inventiveness, we could become so ridiculously maladapted. Either way, we are poorly suited for this world when au naturel, and we live with this inherited adaptation of striving/inventing/struggling to overcome our nakedness so we can be comfortable and safe, even wealthy. Out of our struggle came a spectacular victory. Because it is our superpower, we just can’t stop inventing technologies. We are neurotically addicted to the ‘New & Improved!’. The human condition. We can’t stop accumulating comforts and wealth and offspring and ornament and power.

Yes, Homo sapiens has its occasional crashes of famine, genocide, and epidemics. But we recover and carry on. We’ve carried on all the way to every habitat on this planet and beyond to space, and even further onward into virtual reality.

To some of us, it’s become obvious that our technological super-adaptations are the source of our coming downfall. From sufficiently mal-adapted, to super-adapted, to technological Armageddon. It would have been better to remain just sufficiently adapted, maybe?

So I am trying to learn how to be merely sufficiently adapted. To strip away the technology as much as I can without becoming maladapted (that is, dead). To be unclothed, unornamented, undesiring, primordial. To let go of what is not and instead to accept what is, nakedly, mosquitoes and all.

Pre-human ways lie latent in our modern human minds. That pre-technological nature is still alive, still knows how to respond to the bear met on the trail in the forest, or to the snake nearly stepped on, or to the approaching ferocious lightning storm. That nature also knows how to be simply a body devoid of purpose, basking in the sun, comfortable and trusting, at least when the conditions are sufficiently non-fatal.

My naptime sleep style is not that of a REM-cycle nighttime sleep. At times I wish it could be, that way I could wipe away all the work-accumulated fatigue or account for an insufficient previous night’s sleep, and then return super-energized for work until the end of the day and nighttime’s sleep. Then I could meet all those deadlines, grow a perfect garden, and reply to all those emails.

These pondside naps might instead be something like practiced meditation. I don’t know anything about meditation. I’ve never delved into it as a learned intentional practice. But I can say it is meditative, to lie sprawled out naked, just a body in the sun, the senses sending only few, clear, simple signals to the mind: sun on skin, a breeze that has just stopped, a warbler singing, another breeze, the taptaptapping of a spotted frog, the fading throb of minor muscle pain that flared up earlier in the day, cranes calling to each other, the sweat-licking fly crawling on my arm, the sudden uncomfortable coolness as a cloud covers the sun, the return of the sun’s power as the cloud moves on.

When I first lie down, my mind is scarcely aware of that which is. Instead it grumbles neurotically with thoughts of that which is not: a deadline, hurt feelings over something someone said years ago, the urgency of overdue garden work, guilt for not replying to a friend who wrote months back, the annoying song playing on loop in my head all day. There’s a lot of crud in my brain when I first lie down.

But with my afternoon sleeps, with closed eyes, with only the sensory stimulus available in this semi-wild location, at least on days when we are free from the horrible whining noise of the neighbourhood chainsaws, I’ve learned how to give my brain only that which is: weather, birds, insects, and the sun’s warmth. My human mind shuts down, and my pre-human mind takes over. At first the worded and pictured thoughts disentangle. Then the remnants of thought blend as truncated, illogical, spliced clauses. Then the thoughts cease like a fire going out. My breath slows. My heart rate declines. I lose some of the feeling in my limbs. The muscle aches fade. And then I am aware only of what I can hear, and I feel only comfort. And then I become almost unaware. I become a body in the sun. I leave behind the ‘human condition’. In this pre-human condition, I could contentedly die. I could happily slip back into the primordial soup.

Bliss.

Explorer’s Log: Rare as a Day in June

The McGregor River view to Kakwa Park

This blog entry continues the story of the Walker Exploration, following the one posted on April 9.

June 10th. Continuing up further along the Walker Road, rounding the bend, the view turned from north to east further into the Rocky Mountains to their height, to the divide between the Pacific and Arctic drainages. And what height! The photo above doesn’t do it justice; the distance is diminished. I use only point-and-shoot camera for all my photos. I can’t heft about a bulky SLR camera during fieldwork. So I lose opportunities to capture the telephoto grandness my eyes register in landscape views like this up the McGregor River into Kakwa Park. Jaw-dropping. Literally. I gasped. I think even the most jaded indoorsman would pause and gasp at that view. In any other country, this would be a much-loved national park. But Canada wants to industrialize it, to clearcut its trees and turn it into plantations, as has happened to portions of this drainage already. Jaded indeed.

Rivershore habitats can be rich in plant species. The flood-shifted bars give newly refreshed habitat opportunities, sweeping away tangled willow and alder growth, exposing fresh sand and mud. Seeds get washed down from highland habitats through avalanche chutes to rivers. Birds transport seeds as they land in sloughs. Beavers and other furred animals on their daily journeys also carry seeds and leave them ready to germinate when the opportunity arises. As with seeds, so for spores.

Trevor calls habitats like these sand bars “petri dishes”. And that’s just how they function. They are nutrient-rich and bare, ready for colonization. Strolling along the bars, I can pick out dozens of species that have no other opportunities to grow at low elevations. And because it’s harder for me to explore high elevations than low, it’s an easy way for me to register those species as part of the Robson Valley flora. So here on the bars is the first Hedysarum I’ve seen in the region. Maybe it’s common up there on those mountain slopes. But here I find only one plant. There are moonworts, columbines, anemones, milkvetch, sweetgrass, and the seldom-seen moss Bryobrittonia longipes, including male plants with the antheridia exposed, ready to send their sperm out to meet the female plants that they hope are somewhere nearby.

Bryobrittonia longipes, males, their reproductive parts exposed and visible as the pincushion-like pads in the centres of the leaf rosettes.

This is pleasant and easy work, so long as I remember to look up once in a while to make sure I’m not obliviously stalking a grizzly bear. I wonder how many times I’ve unknowingly been in sight of a bear because I’m too focused on the plants at my feet. Fortunately, most bears are tolerant and just go about their business so long as you don’t do anything to scare them. Or they just run away at first terrifying sniff of the human scent.

Turning back into the forest, facing the slopes above the road, I’m back in the rain forest and riparian floras, where the anemones, columbines, milkvetches and such have no habitat. But another flora thrives in the filtered light, cool humid air, and in the shelter from wind, the conditions that are reversed when these rich old forests are cut down.

Scrambling up and down and along the slope contours, as best as I can do on my bandaged foot, I’m making slow but productive progress. In mature, undisturbed habitats like these I can record a lot of species without moving much. A single tree trunk, the rocks by a stream, the twigs of conifers in the nutrient rain below a giant cottonwood tree. All this can keep me recording for long stretches of time. Cliffs can keep me busy for hours, they’re so loaded with species.

As I observe and register species using my voice recorder from cliffs or other worthy habitats, I collect. Lichen specimens are placed in paper bags for rapid drying and later curation, with GPS-derived latitude-longitude data, basic habitat notes, and the date of collection written on the bag. My backpack can fill rapidly with these bags, and bags of mosses, liverworts, and plastic bags filled with vascular plants that later in the day are splayed out between the blotter sheets of a plant press. When the backpack is full, I start carrying specimen bags in totes so long as I don’t need both hands free for safe scrambling. When unable to carry more, I call an end to the exploration and return to the vehicle or tent to unload. By now, the truck’s back seats are full of specimen bags tumbling over each other. Once curated and identified (a lengthy and meticulous process involving months of microscopy and other methods), the specimens go to Vancouver, to the Beaty Biodiversity Museum at the University of British Columbia.

But for now, I don’t have to worry about curation and microscopy. I can just be a naturalist in an exquisite landscape, delighted at the diversity of life, and feeling completely at peace in this beautiful world (no exaggeration).

Well, there is beauty and there is beauty. Breaking out of the brush, I see another jaw-dropping view, this time much closer than telephoto distance. A limestone cliff, its ancient sediment-settled strata turned by tectonic forces from the horizontal to the perfectly vertical. At its base, a pool of clear, azure water. So clean. And why so blue?

Later I learned that although this pool and its cliff are out-of-sight and difficult to find, it is known to the locals. It has a name: The Sacred Pool. It may look shallow (testament to the purity of the water), but it is deep enough to dive into head-first. But I didn’t. I recognized its sanctity even before I learned its name. I was sweaty and fieldwork-dirty, and my foot was wrapped in a bloody bandage. A body badly lacking in purity. I didn’t want to pollute it.

The Sacred Pool

There are habitats that make a lone botanical explorer whisper aloud with no one to hear “exquisite!!” This is one. It’s a rare habitat. Cool, moist, undisturbed, alkaline cliffs, surrounded by sheltering rainforest, protected from aggressive and overdominant plants by the stony lack of soil. In conditions like these, mosses and lichens that require stillness and ecological constancy grow like the way crystals grow in the still and unchanging conditions required for every molecule gradually to fall into place. Here are Anomobryum concinnatum, Blepharostoma arachnoideum, Bryum blindii, Hymenelia epulotica and H. heteromorpha, Orthothecium chryseum and O. strictum, Timmia norvegica. These are not the species found on dry cliffs, or in rainforest understory, or along streams, and certainly not in industrialized landscapes. These are the species of a sort of ecological perfection.

It had to be in a habitat like this where Canada’s first isidiate Porina species would be found. Porinas are seldom-found lichens which contain as their photosynthetic partner a Trentepohlia species. To a lichenologist, they are delightful, maybe triggering the same part of the mind that responds to rose bouquets and boxes of chocolates. Trentepohlioid algae are distributed primarily in tropical and oceanic climates. They can impart a pinkish colour to their lichen symbioses (as with the present Porina) due to their content of carotenoid pigments (like what makes carrots orange). “Isidiate” refers to asexual reproduction by tiny fingery projections that rise from the lichen thallus surface and which break off potentially to establish a new thallus where they land. I’m not sure if this Porina has a name; it has some unique characteristics among the few isidiate Porina species known to lichenologists. I chiseled a piece of it on a flake of limestone to be able to identify it and to preserve a specimen as part of the proof of the remarkable habitat. I did so with an apology to the Sacred Pool. Chiseling a few pieces of this place was necessary for science–naturalists’ license. For now, the Porina is listed in my collection ledger as “Porina coralloidea P.James aff.”, the aff. standing for the Latin affine — related to. True P. coralloidea is a rare species known only from Europe. Perhaps this one from the Sacred Pool is new to science?

Porina aff. coralloidea

While river shore habitats like those along the McGregor rely on frequent disturbance to maintain biodiversity. This cliff and pool habitat would lose its specialist species if disturbed. A change to this habitat (the clearcutting or burning of the surrounding forest) would ruin the stillness and send it all into a small-scale but highly significant ecological collapse. The opening of the canopy would allow light in that would give the currently shade-inhibited shrubs what they need to grow rapidly and choke the cliff walls and overhang the pool. It would give the mat-forming mosses and liverworts the opportunity to smother out the less competitive lichens and smaller bryophytes. It would allow weedy species the chance to grow robustly and build up thatch that in turn would form soil where there should be none. Upslope cutting would cause erosion that would charge the surface water flow with nitrogen that would drip down the cliffs, enriching them in favour of larger plants. It would become ugly. It would lose its sanctity.

But for now, the Sacred Pool and its sacred cliffs and all its rare wonders are left alone. Let it be beautiful. Let it be.

Beaver Work

I have a dispute with the beavers. Their dams have raised the pond levels so high that some of the spruces on the margins are starting to suffer from flooding. I don’t want any more dead trees. So Buki and I went out to the dams to dig sluice channels to let some of the water out.

Buki helped pull waterlogged wood out of the dam. What could be more fun for a dog and a man than this kind of muddy work? My expression was similar to Buki’s. We laughed a lot. But I think the beavers won’t be laughing.

With our spillway, we created a sort of waterfall–a thrill for Buki, who knows the meaning of the word ‘waterfall’. I was happy with the quantity of water tumbling over the dam. When I went out at dusk to examine the change in water levels on the opposite side of the pond, I found it had gone down by only about a quarter of an inch, but I want the water level to drop by 3–4 inches. I don’t know how long it will take the beavers to discover and repair the breach. If they fix the dam by the morning, then I’ll have to breach it again tomorrow. I’m sure Buki wouldn’t mind undoing the beavers’ repairs.

The swamp candles (Lysichiton americanus) below the dam now have a bit more water flowing by, but they won’t be harmed.

Here’s Buki on the largest of the three beaver lodges. And notice the distant shore of the pond with the row of alders…that is all beaver dam. That portion of the dam is about six feet high. It amazes me to see what enormous structures beavers can create. Admirable animals.

Ravena watched what Buki and I were doing the entire time we were on the dam. And after we finished, she flew home with us and we all had treats. It was a good day.

The next morning, the spillway was blocked again. Beavers hate unplanned water flow. They will rush to the sound of falling water and start to work right away to repair the damage. And I got to work undoing the repairs and creating three more spillways. This time (as of another morning later, as I write this), I got my desired three inch decline in the pond level, but all the spillways are now repaired.

Notice in the photo below the engineering used by the beavers to fix this spillway: 1) wood placed parallel to the outlet flow, 2) wood placed perpendicular to the flow but parallel to the pond shore, 3) mud packed against the shore-parallel wood. Each of the spillways was repaired in this same manner. I wonder if beavers everywhere use this same engineering. Or could our beavers be idiosyncratic, just making it up as they go?

I’ll be interested to see how long it takes the pond water to rise again. The rate of filling will give us some idea of the amount of spring inflow into the pond.

Today We Saw…

A little sylvan pool with…
Ubiquitous pea clams (Pisidium species)

If someone told you to go find some live clams, how long do you think it would take? Probably less time than you think, so long as you know what to look for and where to search. Pisidium casertanum, the “ubiquitous pea clam” occurs all over the place, wherever it’s wet enough for long enough. I once found pea clams on a drippy cliff in an Idaho rain forest. I would love to know of any other example of vertical terrestrial bivalve habitat.

Every year, in early spring, when our sylvan pools are flooded, I go to see the clams. It’s reassuring, somehow, to find them, living happily in their ephemeral habitat. In a month or so, this pool will dry up, and the clams will be dormant until next spring.

The Columbia spotted frogs have been vocal during the past few days. They make a subtle sound. Most people wouldn’t notice, even when there are dozens calling. Just a muffled clicking sort of sound. They’re also rather hard to see. There is one in this photo, but even I as the photographer have a hard time making it out. Trust me, it is there. They like to go unnoticed.

We visited the Symplocarpos foetidus (eastern skunk cabbage) planted at the edge of Sky Pond. It’s in full bloom now, as are the wild western skunk cabbages (Lysichiton americanus). The two genera are rather closely related. I wonder if I could force a hybrid progeny from them, just to prove I’m not completely opposed to mischief science.

A squirrel went bounding along the top of the rock wall and dashed up this little spruce. It chattered away up there, vexing Buki. If only she could fly, then she’d get the squirrels. I do wish she could have a pair of hovering wings, like a hummingbird. She’d be even more fun if she were airbound. So would I.

We went out by headlamp to look for night creatures. In early spring, earthworms emerge part way out of their burrows at night, like little sarlaccs. They scavenge for food among the dead leaves. Or maybe they eat the leaves. When approached, they retract suddenly into their burrows, making a rustling noise as their bodies disturb the dry leaves in passing. If you approach very slowly and quietly, as Buki and I did here, they don’t retract and you can watch them forage. When you get bored with watching them, then jump up in the air and land with both feet hard on the ground: THWUMP! The impact causes an outgoing ring of leaf-rustling sound as thousands of earthworms retract into their holes, each as the shock wave reaches them. It only works in early spring, before new growth smothers the previous year’s dry, rustle-y leaves.

As we often do, we enjoyed a late night canoe ride. Penetrating the dark pond water at night with a headlamp beam reveals much that can’t be seen easily during the day. Such as:

A giant water bug, here lying in wait to ambush its prey. They use their muscled front legs to grab a passerby, and when they have a grip, they then stab the poor animal with their dagger-sharp mouth parts. And then they suck the juices out. It’s a rough world. Poor prey.

And so as not to end on the giant-water-bug-nightmare, here’s a scene from the garden, with potted Princess Irene tulips. It’s still brown season. April isn’t the prettiest month here in the north. But the lawn is starting to turn green. And we’re enjoying some spots of colour here and there, both in the garden and in the wild. The sap is still flowing up into the forest trees, the pressure is building in their buds, and soon, the green-up will happen suddenly, entertainingly, and beautifully.